No Canadian Citrus, You Say?

Photos by Hannah Spray.
Top right: Adina Guest, pastry chef at Love's Galettes on Salt Spring Island, stands with Jane Squier in her 6,000-square-foot greenhouse. At The Garden, Squier grows things that seem impossible to grow here, including passion fruit, 35 varieties of citrus and five kinds of avocados.
Guest used the fruit in the seven-layer cake with alternating pandan and coconut chiffon cake, whipped coconut cream, passion fruit and Makrut lime curd, wrapped in a zingy coconut and Bearss lime buttercream and decorated with fresh kumquats, Sudachi mandarins, finger limes and passion fruit.