A Giant Among Herbs
Lovage,” says Brenda Falk, owner of Tanglebank Gardens and Brambles Bistro in Abbotsford, “is an extremely stately plant, that adds a lot of presence to the garden.”
A perennial herb (Levisticum officinale), lovage grows to a height of nearly two metres and more than a metre wide. Its thick celery-like stems are home to glossy green leaves that give way to yellow flowers arranged in clusters on branching stems that transition to edible seed pods in late summer and early fall. And, although lovage’s appearance reminds the home gardener of celery or parsley, it is actually part of the carrot (Apiaceae) family of plants.
An enduring presence
Native to Afghanistan and Iran, the plant was popular among ancient Greeks who would chew the leaves to help digestion and to ease flatulence. It's ancient Romans, though, who are credited with helping the plants spread throughout Europe. They brought it with them during their occupation of Great Britain from the 1st to 4th centuries. Receiving mention in the Apicius, a collection of Roman recipes written between the 4th and 5th centuries, for its versatility as a seasoning, lovage’s fame was further enhanced when Charlemagne decreed that the plant was to be grown in all mon- astery herb gardens throughout Europe. Finding its way to North America with European settlers, the plant’s popularity endures. Re- nowned for its hardiness, especially in cooler climates, it is a popular choice for herb gardens, including at Tanglebank Gardens and Brambles Bistro.
“Lovage is extremely easy to grow, and adds a unique and pleasant fragrance to the air. The flowers make a great bouquet and can be used to garnish boards,” Falk says.
Big and bold
Enjoying full sun to part shade and well-draining porous sandy soils, lovage is hardy to between -29 C and -35 C. A perennial plant, lovage dies down to the ground in late autumn, resprout- ing from its base in the spring. Although it can be planted in containers, its large and vigorous taproot system will make it feel confined and it will not become the robust plant it could become
if planted directly into the ground. Although great for the plant,this approach can be a double-edged sword for the home gardener. Unless divided regularly, lovage will overtake a small home garden, devouring space and crowding out other smaller plants. The good news is that lovage is easy to propagate through root division.
In late autumn or early spring, when the plant is in a dormant state, dig it up and cut the roots in half. This creates new plants that can be replanted back into the soil one metre apart. The roots can cause phototoxic skin reactions when exposed to sunlight so make sure to wear garden gloves.
A good companion plant for potatoes and other root crops, lovage has few issues with pests or diseases. Leaf miners are about the only insect that dares to come near this garden giant. Appearing as yellow squiggly lines in the leaves, the leaf miner larvae bore their way through the leaf, causing damage. A good prevention is to use store- bought insecticide soap and spray the leaves regularly until the squiggly lines begin to disappear.
An acquired taste
What makes lovage an exceptional plant for the garden are its culinary attributes. All parts of the plant are edible.
“At Tanglebank, we have candied lovage in the past, as well as using it in soups,” Falk says.
Lovage has a high salt content, so just a little adds a lot of flavour to any dish. The stalks and stems can be used alongside carbohydrate- based dishes such as pasta or potatoes. Despite or perhaps because of its high salt content, lovage is sometimes used to make confectionaries such as chocolates. Seeds are a common ingredient in flavoured oils and vinegar. When steeped, the flavour is slowly infuses in the liquid. Even the roots of the plant can be made into tea. Add one teaspoon of shredded lovage roots to a cup of boiling water, let it sit for five minutes, strain and enjoy. And here’s a fun fact: It's name is derived from the combination of love and ache, legend has it that lovage was once used to concoct love potions and aphrodisiacs.
Tasting of parsley with a touch of celery, the flavour of the plant, like the plant itself, is bold. “Lovage can be an acquired taste depending on your tastebuds,” Falk says.
Tanglebank Gardens and Brambles Bistro
29985 Downes Rd., Abbotsford
tanglebank.com | 604.856.9339 | @tanglebankgardensandbistro
Fingerling potato and green bean salad with lovage and smoked salmon
Lovage isn’t normally something you come across in the grocery store. If you don’t find it at the market or know someone growing it, fear not, you can easily substitute celery or celery leaves.
1½ pounds fingerling potatoes
1 cup green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 ounces (about 1/2 cup), smoked salmon pieces
1 tablespoon shallot, minced
¼ cup young lovage leaves, roughly chopped
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Pinch of chilli pepper or hot sauce Salt and pepper
Cook the fingerlings, covered in salted water, for 20 to 25 minutes or until fork tender. Drain the water and let the potatoes cool until you can handle them, then cut them in half lengthwise and place them in a mixing bowl. Reserve.
Trim and cut the green beans into 1-inch long pieces. Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add a good pinch of salt, then add the green beans. Prepare a bowl with ice water. Cook the beans for no more than a minute, remove them from the boiling water and place into the ice bath. Once cooled, remove them add them to the potatoes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, Dijon mustard, shallot, lemon juice and lem- on zest.
Cut the salmon into pieces and add to the potatoes along with the lovage and dressing (and chilies or hot sauce if you like). Season with salt and pepper and toss well.
