Recall the crunchiest cucumber you’ve ever eaten, then imagine one that’s even crunchier. The extra-crunchy wonder is also fresh, juicy and literally squeaky clean. If this cucumber sounds familiar — not just an imaginary treat — then you just might be lucky enough to have enjoyed one of the bestsellers from Black Table Farm.

If you shop at the Fort Langley Farmers’ Market, eat at some of Vancouver’s most celebrated restaurants (think established old-school faves like CinCin, as well as newer award-winning dazzlers — including Nightingale and Elisa) or landed a coveted CSA subscription from Black Table, then you could have experienced the gustatory bliss of a Korean cucumber thanks to husband-and-wife team Suho Lee and Nam Kim.

Although they were both born in Korea, it was never their plan to grow Korean vegetables — or any vegetables at all. In fact, they didn’t plan to become farmers. Back when they met as students, Lee was planning to start his master’s degree in bioscience, and Kim was studying fashion design, soon to begin an internship that ultimately led to an in-house technical designer position at Aritzia. If this sounds like a long way from the fertile fields of Langley, that’s because it is.

On the other hand, both identify detailed data and aesthetically clean presentation as foundational to their success, so their respective aptitudes still serve them well, albeit in a different field. When Kim explains the detailed seasonal crop plan spreadsheets Lee creates, she’s describing a process as precise and carefully researched as any scholarly endeavour. When she speaks of the daily step-by-step plans he creates for the whole farm team every night after the field work is done, the family time is complete and the kids are asleep, her voice fills with awe.

“Farming is hard work, but there’s nothing more rewarding than growing good food and sharing it with people who appreciate it. We love the relationships we’ve built—with chefs, customers, and our community — and seeing the joy our produce brings to their tables makes every early morning and late night feel worth it,” Kim says.

It makes sense, but what propelled the couple from desk to field? Well, if most situations come down to love or money, then this one must be love (farming is decidedly not a get-rich-quick-or-ever scheme in B.C.’s Lower Mainland). Suho fell in love with farming, and Nam fell in love with how passionate Suho was about farming, and the rest fell into place over the course of a decade during which they enjoyed all the niceties of courtship (dating, marriage) while also hustling to work long hours at school and internships.

“Farming is hard work, but there’s nothing more rewarding than growing good food and sharing it with people who appreciate it. We love the relationships we’ve built—with chefs, customers, and our community — and seeing the joy our produce brings to their tables makes every early morning and late night feel worth it,” says Nam Kim, co-owner of Black Table Farm.

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Their story began when Lee relocated to Vancouver for his master’s degree. Before jumping into the program, he wanted to improve his English language skills. Working at Inner City Farms seemed like a fun way to get the practice he sought. After joining the crew, Lee then landed an internship at Inner City, quickly becoming hooked on sustainable agriculture and collaborative teamwork. The rest is history. The two haven’t looked back since starting Black Table Farm in 2018; they have no regrets.

“We love farming because it connects us to something bigger — our land, our community and the food we all share. There’s a deep joy in knowing our work feeds people and fosters relationships,” Kim says.

Now full-time farmers, Lee and Kim still look like office-dwelling professionals when they’re out and about enjoying their favourite restaurants, doing errands, or taking their two kids to activities. You’d never know they’re busy agricultural pros juggling two farms (a temporary bounty as they transition from a leased plot to their own newly purchased property).

They might make it look breezy, but nothing about this trajectory was easy for the couple. “Building Black Table Farm from the ground up as a young family has been one of the hardest — and most meaningful — things we’ve ever done. Every season teaches us something new about resilience, patience, and trust. We’ve built this farm with our hands and hearts — watching it grow alongside our kids has been our greatest joy.”

Their dedication to the shared goal of farming together kept them inspired, as both continued to work long hours that ultimately paid off, enabling Nam to invest in real estate. Meanwhile, Lee’s farm income was used to build the farm business. By combining her investments and his savings, they eventually achieved their dream of owning their own farm property. Kim purposefully and actively searched for Black Table Farm’s permanent home over five long years. It had to be exactly right, prompting her to wonder whether she’d ever find it.

If this sounds more like a fairy tale than a farm tale, that’s because it is. For aspiring young farmers to break into the field without inheriting a family farm (or a family fortune) is practically unheard of… because it’s practically impossible. Southwestern  B.C.’s  punishing  combination  of  high land prices, high wages and high equipment costs, not to mention the costly recovery from the climate disasters that are becoming routine in the region, in contrast with low agricultural returns, makes for a bleak prospect. Only those blessed with the strongest bodies, sharpest minds, and best luck can beat the odds. Fortunately for Kim and Lee, they’ve got all three.

In their case, though, the good luck wasn’t a random windfall. Were they in the right place at the right time? You bet. But that’s not enough.

Rather, they have been able to build on this serendipity because the values that fuel their sustainable farming result in three benefits. Number one is delicious healthy food — obviously. It’s what Black Table Farm is best known for, after all. Next, the methods they use to grow this food help develop soil that improves every season. And finally, the third benefit is how these values perfectly match those of customers who care about the Earth’s health as much as their own.

In fact, the name they chose for their business “reflects both the heart of how we grow and the spirit of what we grow for,” Kim explains. “Black refers to the rich, fertile soil that makes everything possible… Good food starts with good soil, and we’re proud to grow in soil that’s alive, healthy and full of promise.” They nurture their soil by following a no-till, no- spray approach that prioritizes long-term soil health, ecologi- cal balance and nutrient-rich produce.

“We work with the soil not against it,” Kim says. “Instead of tilling, which can disrupt microbial life and lead to erosion, we leave the soil undisturbed to protect its natural structure and foster a thriving underground ecosystem. This helps retain moisture, build organic matter and support beneficial organisms that keep the soil and our crops resilient.

“We do not use synthetic sprays or chemical inputs. Instead, we nourish our crops using organic, soil-building amendments like BioFish, alfalfa meal and composted plant materials. These natural fertilizers feed the soil slowly and steadily, supporting plant health without compromising the environment.”

Another not-so-secret key to their success is variety. The genius of Black Table Farm means there’s something for everyone. Discerning restaurant chefs get a wide range of high quality vegetables, including difficult to source Korean varieties of corn (oksusu), herbs (especially minty perilla), zucchini (aehobak), cabbages (baechu) — and, of course, those crunchy cucumbers (oi).

But Korean vegetables are simply specialty items Black Table Farm cultivates that differentiate its products from other farms. It actually specializes in salad greens such as arugula, baby kale and lettuce mix. Customers at the farmers’ market find the produce Black Table Farm is best-known for — beloved favourites like salad greens, cherry and heirloom tomatoes alongside those ultra-crunchy cucumbers. Loyal CSA customers receive a reliable weekly bounty of seasonal veggies.

Customers aren’t the only ones to appreciate Black Table’s dedication to quality, variety and sustainability: industry insiders recognize it, too. On July 15th, the farm business was included in CinCin’s second annual farm to table dinner, with the six-course menu designed specifically by “chef de cuisine Eddie Muñoz and pastry chef Gizelle Paré” to show-case “the best of B.C.’s produce.”

“We were quite proud,” Kim says, beaming. “We were there with farmers who have been farming for 20, 30 years. To be standing next to them meant something to us.”

Kim and Lee were overwhelmed by the honour bestowed on Black Table Farm, but also dismayed at being the youngest farmers there… by several decades.

“During the dinner all the farmers gave a brief speech, and we realized the industry is really short on young farmers. It’s a hard industry for young people to get into — it’s hard fiscally, and it’s not something everyone wants to do.”

The reality is that many farmers in Southwestern B.C. are “ageing out” of the agricultural industry, and few young would- be farmers possess the triple-threat qualities necessary for success that Lee and Kim do. Kim is simultaneously optimistic about the future of agriculture in the Lower Mainland and the Fraser Valley and deeply worried about the obstacles blocking young, aspiring farmers from feeding their communities.

“There is not enough support from the government for new young farmers. We need automated greenhouses and tools to make this work, but it all costs so much. To build from the ground up requires us to throw everything we earn into a pit to reinvest on the farm,” Kim says.

In the end, the system must change to support capable, keen young farmers with talent for growing and passion for serving their community. Luck is not enough, and it definitely shouldn’t remain the defining factor that dictates whether or not we get to eat.

For now, though, cucumber lovers throughout the Lower Mainland are grateful that Kim and Lee got lucky.

Black Table Farm
blacktablefarm.com | @blacktablefarm