Chaima Chmale admits she keeps an unorthodox schedule. Sometimes that means cooking in the middle of the night. “I don’t sleep!” she says. Yet she seems to have boundless energy. She’s a young mother, an abstract artist, a part-time intake case worker at the Salvation Army and the owner of Darna Moroccan Flavours.

Chmale says she was driven by the thought of being independent and having a flexible schedule.

She grew up in Morocco, where she studied hotel management. Her husband and her mother are both chefs, so as she explains, “[the food business is] something that is in the family.” She had experience working as a production chef in Vancouver, but after going on maternity leave, she started making cookies at home and selling them to friends. Keen to start a business, she found the process of getting registered with the City of Vancouver difficult and struggled with how to go about it.

Chmale found help from Trixie Ling at Flavours of Hope, an organization that helps newcomer women gain economic empowerment and build connections in the community through cooking.

“She helped me a lot, explaining the process, how to register the business, how to get into the farmers’ market. She was really supportive,” Chmale says.

Chaima Chmale, founder of Darna Moroccan Flavours, bottom right, brings the warmth and complexity of Moroccan cuisine to Vancouver’s farmers; markets — one tagine, cookie and stuffed date at a time. Her double-baked croissants feature luscious fillings such as almond and orange blossom water, and pistachio and tahini.

In June 2024, Darna Moroccan Flavours began selling at local farmers’ markets. The first products were baked goods, including a classic Moroccan stuffed bread and traditional cookies made with almond flour, cinnamon and Arabic mastic, a resin from the mastic tree that imparts a piney flavour. Chmale soon moved on to croissants with Moroccan flavours. Her  double-baked  croissants  feature  luscious  fillings  like almond and orange blossom water, and pistachio and tahini.

“We noticed that, at the beginning when we were just doing baked goods, it was hard to get more markets. There’s a lot of competition [in baked goods],” she explains.

Seeing that more opportunities arose when she offered unique items not already available at Vancouver Farmers Markets, she began to focus on Moroccan meals packaged to eat at home. Now her menu includes Moroccan favourites, including Preserved Lemon Roasted Chicken Tagine and Harira Soup, rich with chickpeas, lentils and tomatoes, and flavoured with turmeric, ras el hanout—that stalwart of Moroccan cooking—cinnamon and a touch of lemon, with a version suitable for vegans. “So far, the soup is the best-seller at the markets,” she says.

These rich meals are sold in vacuum sealed bags, a simple solution that belies the depth of flavours. A recent addition to the menu is a fragrant sweet and savoury lamb tagine with prunes and apricots. When serving, Chmale recommends garnishing it with toasted almonds and rose petals. Shoppers can also purchase her homemade harissa paste.

Chmale’s stuffed dates are a sweet treat that comes in many varieties. The dates are slit and stuffed with flavours from Almond Orange Blossom and Arabic mastic resin to Almond Rose Raspberry to Pistachio Tahini and White Chocolate. She even has a take on a Bounty chocolate bar with coconut, coconut milk and whole roasted almonds. Recently, Chmale has adapted the format and made bars using the same ingredients.

Chmale has been pleased by the response. “I’m glad that people are open to learning about Moroccan culture.” The markets give her the opportunity to talk with her customers about Morocco, and about the ingredients and flavours like preserved lemons and the complex blend of mixed spices in ras el hanout.

Some of her customers who have travelled to Morocco in the past and are familiar with the traditional dishes are thrilled to find them here and to relive their experience. “It feels good to connect with people and to realize they are open to trying more.”

For the future, Chmale remains positive despite the looming threat of an economic downturn. “It’s a goal, but also a dream, to get our products in some small local stores.” She is also thinking about the type of business Darna will become — ideally one that offers opportunities to others.

“Something that was in my mind before starting this business is that I’d like to create a space to help someone.” And while that may be a way off, she sees it as part of her plans. Currently, Darna Moroccan Flavours is a part-time endeavour. Chmale also works with adults facing mental health challenges and low- income individuals in the Downtown Eastside. “People have a lot to share,” she says.

While she has made some variations to her recipes for the purpose of marketing — in particular, she responded to customer requests for vegan options — in essence they are as she would cook them at home. “We do it always with love and compassion.”

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