Holubtsi, Varenyky and Borsch

“It was 30 days in a row with no days off. It showed us what we could expect from ourselves.” Kuznietsov compares the experience to a “good school” and says they enjoyed every minute.

Both acknowledge the centrality of the market experience with Karpenko reminiscing, “I miss that time. It’s socializing, you are talking (to customers). It’s not about selling.”

“It was an interesting experiment in relatively low-risk scaleability,” Kuznietsov adds, explaining that they had to learn along the way about how much to bake and sell and how to get it to the markets.

At that time, they were working out of another bakery, and soon the owner was giving them an entirely friendly nudge, suggesting that their success was proof it was time for them to get their own place. They found a location in New Westminster on 6th Street with a small storefront and opened in March 2015, still largely focused on markets rather than retail.

“In retrospect, it’s a blessing we didn’t know what it takes to open up. If we knew the amount of work that it would take to get where we are today, I don’t think we would have had the guts to get it started,” says Kuznietsov, adding that they took just three months to launch, which he calls “insane.”

Four years in, they opened a second location on Victoria Drive, which allowed them to buy some more equipment, centralize their baking and concentrate on their brick and mortar locations. Today they also operate a Gastown location.

Besides the huge array of baked goods, organic sourdough, traditional and more modern pastries — hello, massive croissant cubes — the business is known for its Ukrainian food, which can be purchased to eat in or to take away from retail fridges. Customers flock to Kozak for its holubtsi (cabbage rolls), varenyky (pierogis) and borsch, the beet soup that is a UNESCO-protected part of Ukrainian cultural heritage, spelled in the Ukrainian way, without a “t.” You can also find luscious rolled crêpes filled with chicken and mushrooms called nalysnyky.

Kozak staff prepares all their varenyky in New Westminster, most of the baking is done on Victoria Drive while the Gastown location operates a small café and takeout section but functions primarily as a bar and restaurant.

Reimagining Ukrainian cuisine
Kuznietsov says that it has been interesting for them to learn about the differences between Ukrainian and Ukrainian Canadian cuisine, which he puts down to the availability of ingredients and adaptations that may have been made when Ukrainian immigrants first came to Saskatchewan and Manitoba in the late 1890s. “A lot of our customers told us about super similar products, but done slightly differently. In some cases, Canadian Ukrainians preserved certain flavours in their dishes that were replaced or banished during the Soviet era in Ukraine,” he says.

At the Gastown restaurant, the Kozak team is able to reimagine some of its favourite Ukrainian dishes and experiment with more modern plating. The team members are also following a movement taking place in Ukraine, a form of gastronationalism that some have called borsch diplomacy, which questions the origins of all their dishes, separating them from any Russian influences and going back to basics. Take the case of cabbage rolls, which often contain rice, an ingredient many consider an essential component. But why? Ukraine was not a traditional producer of rice — it likely came to the region via trade. Buckwheat was more likely to be the original filling. These are the types of ideas they are exploring and this sometimes puts them in conflict with what people expect and understand about Ukrainian food, but Kuznietsov says the restaurant gives staff the opportunity to talk with customers about its philosophy and some of its decisions.

“It makes it interesting. You may have impact if you have patience enough, if you are persistent enough in changing things,” Kuznietsov says.

It also means reaching out to customers and the team for feedback and collaboration and to leverage the knowledge of past generations and find the sweet spot for their recipes.

“Now we have all the team with all their grandmas who say “I remember doing it this way — that’s a beautiful process,” Karpenko says.

Much of the philosophy at the heart of the cuisine offered at Kozak is rooted in using what’s available and that means looking locally. At Kozak’s Gastown restaurant, you’ll find a seared Chilliwack duck breast, laid on a parsnip purée, with grilled oyster mushrooms, garnished with a bright orange sauce made from sea buckthorn, a plant native to Ukraine that also grows in B.C. and that Kuznietsov says is “the taste of (his) childhood.”

Green borsch made from sorrel is a summertime favourite enjoyed in Ukraine and B.C.’s climate provides easy access to this ingredient. The pair speaks enthusiastically about finding sea buckthorn and items such as sorrel and nettles locally. Kuznietsov adds, “We are lucky to be in Canada. The climate is super similar to Ukraine. We have access to many things. Same plants, same trees.”

A focus for community
Since the escalation of war in Ukraine with Russia’s February 2022 attack, Kozak’s three locations have become a focus for the Ukrainian community. In each location, visitors are invited to affix a blue or yellow heart to denote their place of origin or where they have family on a large map of Ukraine. The sheer number speaks to the breadth of the Ukrainian community in the area.

“It was interesting being in the restaurant and witnessing these first couple months of war and how it actually united people and how Ukrainians in Vancouver had this need to get together and do something. It was interesting to witness the unity of it and the support that we got from Canadians, from our neighbours, from our vendors,” Kuznietsov says.

Kozak supports Ukraine by collecting donations for the Kyiv Regional Clinical Hospital and the couple has hired more than 50 people who came from Ukraine as a result of the war. But the two admit they can’t hire everyone, as much as they would like to. And while they never set out to hire primarily Ukrainians, today their team consists of more than 90 people and approximately 90 per cent are Ukrainian or of Ukrainian background.

The pair acknowledge the difficulties staff have faced as newcomers to Canada having faced difficult times “back home,” but they are resilient.

Kuznietsov adds that he has witnessed and benefitted from his staff’s pride in Ukraine and says it motivates them all to do a good job. “They are proud to be Ukrainians in Vancouver and they try to show it through their work.”

“We have such a beautiful mix of people,” Karpenko adds, explaining that the team consists of professionally trained bread bakers, as well as teachers and chemists.

“After the first tough year, in this second year, they’ve got used to Canada,” she says. “They enjoy it and are doing great at work. And it’s something I’m happy about.”

“We have such an interesting and educated team. Yes, they have different knowledge, but thanks to this knowledge we are getting better with them. We are growing faster, with everyone pushing from different sides. Because they are part of it. That’s not us pushing. It’s something very organic.” It’s a testament to the difference they are all making.

Kozak Homemade Ukraïnian Food
kozakeatery.ca | 778.955.9135 | @kozakukrainianfood

Kozak Ukraïnian Bakery and Cafe
444 6th St., New Westminster

Kozak Ukraïnian Eatery & Mill
5077 Victoria Dr., Vancouver

Kozak Ukraïnian Restaurant & Bar
1 West Cordova St., Vancouver